Author: Lyn Smith

I have to get this off my chest. I found modern residential architecture in Canada to be a refreshingly unique typology. These photographs from the river represent various ages of modern architecture that captures the river views through modern design from single family homes to tree houses and boat houses. Fun stuff!

Once we left Montreal, we traveled northeast on the mighty Saint Lawrence River to an “off the beaten path” local marina outside of Sorel, Quebec, our next turning point. Lovely lowland country and happy folk who enjoyed disco music. Turning south past the iron and titanium production plant in Sorel, we entered the Richelieu River passing under historic bridges and fields of wildflowers. We had envisioned this part of the journey through French settled Quebec as being a cruise through the rivers of France. It truly felt that way. The dominant feature in every village is the prominently placed stone church with tin coated copper spires of designs unique to each local. The winding and wide Richelieu River shallowed in Chambly, QC requiring the construction of a flight of locks to serve military purposes related to the defense of the French occupation, including the beautifully restored Fort Chambly. The restoration is remarkable and the exhibits are engagingly presented.

We enjoyed a weather day on the wall at the top of the Chambly flight of three, inviting the newlyweds in their 24 foot skiff aboard for Sunday brunch. From Maine, the young couple had all types of sea stories having graduated from Maine Maritime Academy, and were completing the Triangle Loop in two weeks (it has taken us 2 years!)

The cruise through the Chambly Canal into Lake Champlain took us through many picturesque towns, locks and vistas. This leg was most memorable for not only the scenery, but for Marty and my attempts to speak French!

Marty and I are extremely safety conscious, at least we think we are. We have all kinds of live saving equipment on board and perform safety checks every year. Even so, every step you take can make a difference, hence a broken toe and multiple bruises from walking into immovable boat objects like deck cleats.

Anyway, two interesting things happened yesterday that made us feel good about our vigilance.

Upon our entrance to Burlington Harbor Marina, a small Coast Guard patrol boat came storming out of the Burlington Coast Guard Station headed directly at us. The craft slowed, the blue lights flashed, and they approached us from the stern. Nice (cute) young gentlemen. “Have you ever been boarded by the Coast Guard?” “No!” “Routine safety check.” “OK!” It didn’t take long. The nice young man asked for our documentation and Marty’s drivers license (?). He was from Connecticut too! They did not board the vessel, but reviewed the documentation and the safety gear that was visually accessible, and gave us a new Coast Guard safety signoff certificate. Funny thing is that last year when we were in Burlington at the same marina, the CG approached us from the dock, came aboard and did their safety check. All good! These are training exercises and we are happy to participate.

Later in the afternoon, long after we were settled, a 34′ Searay boat was docking on an adjacent finger dock. Seemed as if they were under control. I noticed that the gentleman from the boat behind them came out to assist the lady with the lines so we did not rush over. Next time I turn around, she is in the water, having reached too far for the bow line. I ran to get her out of the water (electrical shock in marinas), Marty grabbed the life ring to keep her buoyant; I released the stern line of the boat that had been tied to let the boat free so that it would not crush her; the man from the boat behind ran for a ladder and we assisted her out of the water. Meanwhile, the bow and stern lines were dangling in the water in proximity of tangling in the props (bad thing). Crisis averted! Quick thinking of multiple heads. No one hurt.

Lesson learned again. Take every step carefully.

We arrived in Montreal on Monday afternoon and immediately realized that our planned 3 night stay would not be enough to fully enjoy this European style city. In our extended five day stay we have walked until we couldn’t take another step and have not scratched the surface of the various neighborhoods and events. Loopers Doug and Dana on Tumbleweed invited us to join them on a private walking tour of Old Town which not only gave us insight into the history and architecture of the city, but also came with French lessons! Provisioning at the Jean Talon Market was a sensory delight. We have taken the opportunity to dine in many fine restaurants including our favorite from a past trip to Montreal, L’orignal. Since Cirque du Soleil originated in Montreal, we felt that we would be remiss if we did not attend the performance of Kooza, which was delightful. The 20 story, La Grande Roue (ferris wheel) beckons, but Lyn has yet to overcome her fear of heights. Perhaps today will be the day!

Today, July 1, is Canada Day which was originally known as Dominion Day, to celebrate the confederation of three separate British colonies (United Canadas, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick) into one British dominion. Upon gaining complete sovereignty from Britain in 1982, the name of the national holiday was changed to Canada Day. We have front row seats to the fireworks to be held on the river this evening! Congratulations Canada!

Ottawa is a beautiful and vibrant city. Within the city limits, the four mile Rideau Canal is lined with a continuous park system which is well used by bicyclists, walkers, joggers, dogs and baby carriages. Dow’s Lake Marina where we have docked for the last few days sports a kayak, canoe and paddle boat rental business which adds to the sense that Ottawans are constantly moving. It is refreshing to see the diversity of cultures that populate the city and the restaurants and market stall offerings that reflect this richness.

The National Gallery is architecturally significant and houses Canada’s varied art collections. We enjoyed the special exhibit of Canadian Impressionists and also took in 2 miles worth of other collected works as well. Another highlight is the Canadian Museum of History and the Grand Hall in particular which houses the world’s largest collection of totem poles, spectacular cedar trees sculpted by the First Nations of the Northwest which illustrate ancestry, history or commemorate a special event. I believe I speak for both of us when I suggest that we have a much better understanding of Canadian history, and were surprised at how little we knew of it prior to this visit.

Always in search of good food, we strolled between the raindrops in the Byward Market finding cheese, salmon and freshly picked strawberries! At the suggestion of a boating family whom we met on multiple occassions on the canal system, we dined at Whalesbone restaurant. Wonderful PEI, New Bruswick and Newfoundland oysters, Thai coconut mussels, scallops with pork belly, and miso glazed sablefish. We are apparently craving fish!

Tomorrow is a foul weather day so we will move the boat, in the morning before the storms, to the “grey line” in the heart of Ottawa prior to descending the Flight of Eight locks to the Ottawa River on Friday. This move will eliminate the need for Ubers and provide us the opportunity to visit Parliament and have High Tea at the Fairmont Chateau Laurier!

Last summer we explored the Hudson River, Lake Champlain, the Erie Canal and the Saint Lawrence Seaway. Many of the sites along these waterways developed as military outposts, ship building settlements or supply depots. Familiar names names like Fort Ticonderoga and West Point, and many not so commonly known communities such as Fort Edward, Whitehall (considered the birthplace of the US Navy) Crown Point (possession back and forth between conquering armies) and Sackets Harbor (major US naval presence, including ship building, on eastern Lake Ontario). Most of these strategic places played multiple roles in early land disputes between the English and French, later during the French and Indian War, and again during the American Revolution and the War of 1812.

This summer we began our adventure on the Rideau Canal Waterway in Ontario, Canada, a UNESCO World Heritage Site designed between 1826 and 1832 to serve as a military supply and fortification route between Ottawa and Kingston. The 126 mile route, designed by British Colonel John By, was intended to thwart potential American attacks on British forces by circumventing the St. Lawrence River trade route that bordered the United States.

The Rideau Canal is a system of sixteen inland lakes, two rivers and a 60 foot high dam connected by a series of 45 locks. Most of the locks are still operated by the original hand crank mechanisms although the doug fir lock doors need to be replaced every 15 years.

Most of the locks are in park settings meticulously maintained by Parks Canada. Boaters are allowed to tie up to the lock walls for overnight stays which provide a restful nights sleep. We are enjoying the white noise of the adjacent waterfalls as well as the local flora and fauna. After 10 days on the system, we have at least that many more to go until we reach Ottawa ( a car drive that one could make in an hour or so!).

Photos to follow…

Lots of activity on the dock at the Gananoque Municipal Marina (say that 3 times fast while hailing on the radio).

Fish Fight Drama lasted 5 squawking minutes. Even after the winner was declared, the squawking continued from both parties. Perhaps they both realized that there is more than one fish in the river and that it didn’t have to come down to this!

The following is excerpted from the Boldt Castle website (couldn’t have said it better myself): https://www.boldtcastle.com/visitorinfo/about

A BRIEF HISTORY

At the turn-of-the-century, George C. Boldt, millionaire proprietor of the world famous Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City, set out to build a full size Rhineland castle in Alexandria Bay, on picturesque Heart Island.  The grandiose structure was to be a display of his love for his wife, Louise.

Beginning in 1900, the Boldt family spent summers in the 1000 Islands at the Boldt Families Wellesley House near Mr. Boldt’s Wellesley Island Farms while 300 workers including stonemasons, carpenters, and artists fashioned the six story, 120 room castle, complete with tunnels, a powerhouse, Italian gardens, a drawbridge, Alster tower (children’s playhouse) and a dove cote. Not a single detail or expense was spared.

In January 1904, tragedy struck. Boldt telegraphed the island and commanded the workers to immediately “stop all construction.” Louise had died suddenly. A broken hearted Boldt could not imagine his dream castle without his beloved. Boldt never returned to the island, leaving behind the structure as a monument of his love.

For 73 years, the castle and various stone structures were left to the mercy of the wind, rain, ice, snow and vandals. When the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property in 1977, it was decided that through the use of all net revenues from the castle operation it would be preserved for the enjoyment of future generations.

Since 1977, several million dollars have been applied to rehabilitating, restoring and improving the Heart Island structures.

IN OUR TIME

Marty and I had previously visited Boldt Castle, about 6 years ago, and were awed by the structure and by the amount of work (and money) that the State of New York has invested to restore the building and its period rooms. The property is clearly a tourist destination and ultimately worth the effort to infuse tourist dollars into the economy of Alexandria Bay and the Thousand Islands in general.

At present, we are docked at the Thousand Islands Club, which was established by Mr. Boldt on Wellesley Island as a golf and yacht club, across from the site of the castle on Heart Island, . What a lovely spot! We have enjoyed dinner on the mansion veranda, cocktails in the foyer lounge, conversation at the firepit, freighter viewing on the Saint Lawrence River from the flagpole, and our own special dockage directly off the historic boathouse. I feel like royalty! This is my kind of marina!

We contemplated taking Aisling, or Pudgy the dingy, to Heart Island which invites boaters to tie up and visit. Instead we elected to walk to the Boldt Boathouse and take the pontoon boat to Heart Island and the Castle. We needed the walk and the boats were happy at their historic dock. While there are separate docks for pleasure boats and tour boats, we were satisfied that we made the decision not to involve our boats but rather our feet.

In these Covid times, it was uncomfortable for us to be lingering in the populated castle interiors. Much as I wanted to see each and every room, Marty was at his limit. We walked the lovely grounds and appreciated the Alster Tower playhouse (oh my!), the gardens and ponds, the docks, and the power plant.

Taking the pontoon boat back to the Boldt Boathouse, where we had begun our exploration, we toured the architecturally significant boathouse structure as well as the amazing collection of historic boats within. A good long walk back to the TI Club and our boat, after which the heavens opened up in big and unexpected way! Our good fortune continues!

Having looked at the weather forecast last evening, we slept in this morning realizing that we would be spending a fifth day at Ess-Kay Yard in Brewerton not only due to weather, but also because after 5 days, we had still not received the 2-day priority package from Woodstock. Not that staying was a bad thing. I had visions of baking bread or at least blueberry muffins, keeping up with work obligations, and reading, not to mention completing the daily crossword puzzle.

By 10 AM the package had arrived at the PO and Kim, the owner of the marina, allowed me to use her car to collect it. Meanwhile Marty was following the weather and found that we had a window of opportunity to travel north to Oswego on Lake Ontario. OK! Off to the fuel dock and pump out!

Passed through Lock E-23 and turned north at the directional sign that led us off the Erie. Brief rain. Lock O-1. While we were told that the chamber was filling for us, the northbound vessel, we were surprised that it took so long and that the southbound boat that requested passage after us, came through first. What we were really surprised about was the dockmaster’s query as to whether we wanted the drawbridge opened for us. Clearance: 14′. Need: 15’6. Yes Please! Crazy crane lifted the highway bridge just beyond the northern lock door.

In the meantime, Lockmaster conversation. Where are you going? Oswego. You won’t make it because Locks 6, 7, and 8 close at 5 PM. Oh! And, by the way, if we have 4/10 of an inch more rain, the canal will close due to clearance issues. Oh!!!

We settled on tying to the wall between Locks 2 and 3. A fine spot. No amenities or services, but we enjoyed the breeze, the view of the falls to the north and south, and a delightful dinner of grilled shrimp wrapped in prosciutto and basil. Alas, no homemade bread.

Hopefully there will be no more rain until we get out of the Oswego Canal! Go with the flow…

Follow up: We left the Lock 2/3 wall at 7:30 AM and locked through the remaining 4 locks by 11:30 AM. The canal closed due to high water at 2:40 PM. They literally closed the door behind us! Our luck holds one more time!

I have to admit to being a bit intimidated as we approached Erie Canal Lock 17 (E-17). With a 40.5 foot lift, it is the highest lock on the Erie system. Not only that, but it was the first “guillotine” style lower lock door that we have encountered. Lately infamous due to the failure of the door’s hoisting mechanisms, boats stacked up on both approaches in late May while a special part was fabricated to replace the one-off historic mechanism. After a number of days, a special crane was brought in from Pennsylvania to lift the door on a scheduled basis to allow for boats to pass.

Fellow Loopers Lisa and Ray Henry on MV Scout sent us the attached photos as we locked through E-17. Not only did the “waterfall” cool me down, but the tiny mussels that cling to the lock walls spit at you the whole way up!